From Rome with Love: 100 Years of Fendi

Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi: The Birth of the “Fun Fur” Era

A pivotal moment arrived in 1965 when the sisters brought in Karl Lagerfeld as creative director for fur, and later, for ready-to-wear. Lagerfeld reimagined fur as a material for contemporary fashion rather than just formal coats. He pioneered techniques such as shaving, dyeing, and weaving fur into lightweight, playful designs unlike anything else on the market.

He also created Fendi’s now-famous double “FF” logo, originally standing for “Fun Fur.” This bold graphic became a powerful branding tool, appearing across clothing, luggage, and handbags, giving Fendi an instantly recognizable identity in the luxury space.

The Fendi FF Logo: Zucca and Zucchino Prints

Around this time, Fendi introduced two enduring prints: Zucca and Zucchino. The Zucca print, launched in 1967, features the FF logo in a large, bold scale, typically in shades of brown and black. It became one of the house’s defining motifs, symbolizing Fendi’s playful yet refined aesthetic. The Zucchino print, a smaller-scale version of the same design, offered a more subtle take. Both remain hallmarks of the brand, appearing across handbags, luggage, and accessories for decades.

Fendi in the 1970s and 1980s: Expansion and Experimentation

During the 1970s and 1980s, Fendi became synonymous with opulent fur while expanding into ready-to-wear and accessories under Lagerfeld’s direction. The brand’s hallmark became a balance between traditional Roman craftsmanship and avant-garde experimentation, cementing Fendi’s reputation as a forward-looking Italian label.

Fendi and LVMH: A New Global Chapter

In 2001, Fendi entered a new chapter when LVMH acquired a majority stake, integrating the brand into the world’s largest luxury group. This fueled global expansion while still anchoring the house in Rome. In 2015, the company’s headquarters moved into the historic Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana—also known as the “Square Colosseum”—a building that came to symbolize both its Roman identity and contemporary ambition.

The Fendi Peekaboo and Modern Handbag Icons

Silvia Venturini Fendi continued to build her reputation as the house’s accessories visionary with the launch of the Peekaboo bag in 2008–2009. With its structured silhouette and signature turn-lock closure revealing contrasting interiors, the Peekaboo became an instant classic.

Other notable designs from Silvia include the By The Way bag and reissues of cult favorites like the mid-2000s Spy bag. Around this time, Fendi introduced the Selliér line, emphasizing sharp, architectural shapes and rigid construction – a sharp contrast to the softer silhouettes of the originals. The duality showcased the house’s technical mastery and timeless versatility.

Fendi at 100: Celebrating A Century of Innovation

In 2025, Fendi celebrated its centennial. Around this milestone, Silvia Venturini Fendi transitioned into the role of honorary president, cementing her legacy as one of the brand's most defining figures. Her leadership produced some of Fendi’s most iconic handbags while guiding the maison through decades of transformation, balancing heritage with reinvention.

Today, Fendi stands as one of Italy’s great luxury houses, revered for its blend of artisanal traditional and bold experimentation. Its FF logo remains an enduring symbol of playful luxury, while the Baguette and Peekaboo continue to define modern handbag culture. From its origins as a small Roman atelier to its global stature within LVMH, Fendi has stayed true to its essence: a house that celebrates creativity, craftsmanship, and the continual evolution of fashion.

Iconic Styles

The Baguette

The Baguette was introduced in Fall/Winter 1997, designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi. Featuring a compact, rectangular shape, the design slips effortlessly under the arm like its namesake, the French baguette. Crafted in everything from the iconic Zucca canvas to sequins, beads, and exotic skins, the Baguette became a canvas for individuality, inviting endless customization.

The Mama

The Fendi Mama Bag arrived in the late ’90s as the Baguette’s more pragmatic counterpart, but it never lost the attitude of its famous sibling. With the same flap-front closure and bold FF clasp, the Mama translated that signature look into a larger, more accommodating shape, complete with a longer strap for easy wear.

The Peekaboo

The Peekaboo was designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi for the house's 2009 Spring/Summer collection. It is the house’s answer to structure with a twist of playfulness. Its top-handle frame and turn-lock closure reveal hidden compartments that are literally a game of peekaboo, offering a subtle element of surprise. Available in micro, mini, and oversized versions, and crafted from leather, exotic skins, and luxe textures, the Peekaboo balances architectural precision with a quiet sense of whimsy.

The Spy

When Fendi introduced the Spy Bag in its Spring/Summer 2005 collection, it instantly became the accessory everyone wanted to be seen with. Unlike the structured “It bags” of the era, the Spy was all about relaxed glamour with braided handles and clever hidden compartments that gave it its playful name.

The 2Jours

The 2Jours tote, launched in the Spring/Summer 2012 collection, features dual compartments, clean lines, and a detachable shoulder strap. The bag is engineered for the modern woman on the move. Its name, “two days” in French, signals versatility: perfect for the office, ideal for weekend plans.

Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Fourrure: Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2015 Haute Fourrure was a masterclass in reinvention, presenting the house’s first haute couture fur collection with unapologetic drama. Karl Lagerfeld pushed the boundaries of tradition, sculpting fur into unexpected textures, bold volumes, and almost architectural silhouettes.

90th Anniversary Show: For its 90th anniversary in 2016, Fendi turned Rome’s Trevi Fountain into a stage that celebrated the house’s enduring legacy. The show was less about individual designs and more about nearly a century of innovation, craftsmanship, and influence, honoring Fendi’s Roman roots, its pioneering work with fur, and the creative vision of Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi. With models appearing to float above the fountain and a suspended catwalk reflecting in the water, the presentation became a cinematic tribute to 90 years of heritage, artistry, and cultural impact.