The Cultural Impact of Virgil Abloh on Fashion and Identity

Hip-hop is more than just a music genre, it’s a cultural movement that has influenced art, language, politics, and fashion. Emerging in the 1970s, hip-hop began as a form of expression among youth in the Bronx, New York City. Faced with economic hardship, social inequality, and limited creative outlets, these communities developed a vibrant cultural scene rooted in DJing, MCing, breakdancing, and graffiti art.

While attending the Illinois Institute of Technology in Chicago, Virgil Abloh gained attention from fellow Chicago native Kanye West for his music production skills. He was hired as the Head Creative of West’s company, Donda. In this role, Abloh designed several of Kanye’s album covers, including 808s & Heartbreak, Watch the Throne, and My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy. Shortly after graduating in 2009, Abloh moved to Rome for a six-month internship at Fendi’s headquarters, where he met Michael Burke, then CEO of Fendi and now CEO of Louis Vuitton.

In 2012, Virgil Abloh launched his first fashion venture called Pyrex, a name referenced in rapper Pusha T’s song “Mr. Me Too.” Pyrex was not necessarily a traditional clothing brand, but rather an artistic experiment. Abloh purchased flannel shirts from Ralph Lauren, Hanes T-shirts, and shorts, then screen-printed them with the Pyrex logo and the number 23, a nod to fellow Chicago legend Michael Jordan. Kim Kardashian, A$AP Rocky, Kanye West, and Rita Ora were among the celebrities spotted wearing Pyrex, helping the brand gain attention. The project was short-lived and sparked controversy for marking up the garments by over 700%, but despite the backlash, the collection sold out.

Despite the criticism Pyrex received, it served as a steppingstone for Virgil Abloh’s entry into the fashion world. Later in 2012, he launched Off-White, a brand that aimed to bridge the gap between high fashion and streetwear. Off-White symbolizes the space between black and white, representing a middle ground in both style and culture.

In 2015, Abloh presented Off-White’s first runway show in Paris on his 35th birthday, titled “Off-Day.” That same year, Off-White was selected as a finalist for the LVMH Prize, a highly regarded award launched in 2013 by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton to recognize and support promising young fashion designers worldwide. In 2017, he also won the International Designer of the Year award at the GQ Men of the Year Awards.

Michael Burke, Chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton, voiced strong support for Virgil Abloh, recognizing his "innate creativity and bold approach" that not only reshaped fashion but made him a force in streetwear culture. During his time at Louis Vuitton, Abloh didn’t just design clothing, he connected with a new generation, one that craved innovation and authenticity. By tapping into youth culture and mastering the art of social media, he bridged gaps and made fashion feel personal. His work transcended the runway, fostering collaborations between fashion and music that changed both industries forever. Abloh’s legacy is one of inspiration and the belief that the future of fashion belongs to those who dare to break the mold.

Virgil Abloh’s Spring/Summer 2019 menswear debut for Louis Vuitton was more than just a highly anticipated collection it marked a historic shift in fashion. Located at Palais-Royal in Paris, guest sat along a gradient-colored runway that faded from white to rainbow, a nod to The Wizard of Oz. As the first black Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton menswear, Virgil used the moment to reflect his own journey and redefining what high fashion could look like through his lens. The yellow brick road symbolized a journey toward possibility and inclusion.

Virgil invited some of his close friends and cultural collaborators to walk the runway, some from the world of music such as Kid Cudi, Playboi Carti, Steve Lacy, and Dev Hynes. Virgil’s bold choices proved that high fashion could and should be connected to the culture shaping it. The clothes themselves played with fluid tailoring and workwear influences including piece like the Monogram Eclipse chain belt and the Solar Ray Utility Side Bag. Virgil Abloh used his platform at Louis Vuitton to open doors, break codes, and prove that fashion can be a powerful tool for storytelling and change.

Virgil Abloh’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection for Louis Vuitton was held at the Tuileries Garden in Paris, featuring a whimsical set design with floating clouds and oversized art supplies, creating a dreamlike atmosphere. The collection, titled "Heaven on Earth", showcasing Abloh's signature deconstructed tailoring, with suits oversized ruffles, cloud motifs, and innovative cuts. The collection modernized classic silhouettes like the Sac Plat featuring playful elements for a fresh approach.

Abloh described the collection as a reimagining of traditional menswear through the "Black Imagination," aiming to challenge the narratives around black identity in fashion. The campaign featured models like Michael Ward and Ottawa Kwami, emphasizing Abloh's commitment to representation and inclusivity. In essence, Louis Vuitton's Fall/Winter 2020 collection under Virgil Abloh was more than just a fashion show, it was a cultural statement pushing boundaries.

Virgil Abloh’s Spring/Summer 2021 Message in a Bottle collection for Louis Vuitton, presented in Shanghai featured a blend of streetwear and high fashion, featuring traditional designs with Virgil’s twist. Abloh's use of recycled and upcycled materials highlighted his commitment to sustainability, while the inclusion of elements like the brand’s trompe l’oeil prints.

The concept of the show was rooted in the idea of global connection, with Abloh introducing his new “Zoooom with Friends” vibrant, cartoon-like figures that appeared across both the clothing and accessories. A playful nod showcasing Abloh’s love of art and his ability to blend pop culture with fashion. The collection also included sculptural details, like jackets that referenced iconic landmarks such as the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre's pyramid, showcasing Abloh's architectural influences. Featuring performances from legendary artists Saul Williams and Yasiin Bey (formerly Mos Def), who brought a dynamic energy to the runway. Abloh also made history with the debut of Kai-Isaiah Jamal, the first Black, trans model to walk for Louis Vuitton.

Virgil Abloh's Fall/Winter 2021 collection for Louis Vuitton, titled Ebonics / Snake Oil / The Black Box / Mirror, Mirror, was presented through a 13-minute short film directed by Wu Tsang, the show opened with poet and musician Saul Williams reciting a monologue on a hillside in Switzerland. This setting was a direct reference to James Baldwin's essay ‘Stranger in the Village’, reflecting on Baldwin's experiences as a Black man in a predominantly white Swiss village.

The film transitioned to the Tennis Club de Paris, featuring models in green marble-clad interiors, symbolizing the blending of nature and architecture. The collection itself challenged traditional fashion norms, including notable pieces like chrome monogrammed trunk bags, transparent plastic suits, and garments adorned with airplane-shaped buttons, alluding to themes of travel and identity. A pre-launch residency of the collection was held at Louis Vuitton's SoHo store in New York City. Allowing visitors to engage with the collection firsthand, further emphasizing Abloh's commitment to blending fashion with cultural commentary.

In November 2021, Louis Vuitton presented its Spring/Summer 2022 menswear show first named “Amen Break” later changed to “Virgil Was Here”, just days after the passing of Artistic Director Virgil Abloh. Held at the Miami Marine Stadium during Art Basel, the show served as a powerful tribute to Abloh’s legacy. A hot air balloon emblazoned with the Louis Vuitton monogram floated above a tree-lined runway.

Figures like Kid Cudi, Offset, and Quavo walked the runway, reflecting Abloh’s ties to music and culture. The show closed with a moving voiceover from Abloh saying “Life is so short… know what you can do.” encouraging the audience to follow their own paths.

Freedom is more than just a moment it’s a journey, a layered unfolding. Virgil Abloh’s life and work echoed that ongoing pursuit. He moved through the world with purpose, turning spaces that once felt out of reach into places of belonging. Through fashion, design, and culture, he told stories that weren’t always given space before stories of identity, and creative power. His legacy isn’t just about breaking barriers, it’s about reimagining what’s possible when you bring your full self into rooms that were never built with you in mind.

Virgil Abloh was an African American fashion designer, founder of Off-White, and Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton menswear.

They blend streetwear vibes with luxury craftsmanship, featuring unique designs and signature details that reflect Virgil’s creative vision.

He drew inspiration from history, architecture, and hip-hop culture, often comparing his work to how hip-hop artists sample music.

He drew from hip-hop, architecture, and art to create designs that told stories about identity and culture.

You can browse our website for available pieces or visit one of our retail stores in person.