Luxury Textiles 101: Pre-Loved Chanel
A Guide to the Materials Behind the Icons
Chanel is a fashion house deeply rooted in history. Since 1912, Chanel has evolved and has masterfully tested their creativity. Through the hands of Gabrielle Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, currently Matthieu Blazy and others in between, the brand continues to grasp any fashion lover’s gaze. Their inventive use of leather, tweed, exotics, embellishments, and more has created one of the most coveted handbag catalogs. Chanel’s brand can be welded to their interlocking CC logo, but there is still so much more that defines the fashion house.
The luxurious look of their textiles is part of why Chanel has stood the test of time. From a handbag’s buttery lambskin to their infamous tweed, there are many materials that define the fashion house.
Let's dig into some textiles that make Chanel’s handbags the perfect accessory.
Inside the Textiles That Define Chanel
Lambskin
Chanel’s lambskin has a lavish, buttery feel. Lambskin is perfect for the Classic flap silhouette because the machine stitch is perfectly worked into the material creating a soft plush. One of lambskin’s best features is the way it retains shine throughout the years. With a little bit of TLC, a secondhand lambskin Chanel flap bag can look close-to-new!
Caviar
Chanel Caviar released in the ‘90s under Karl Lagerfeld’s creative direction. Caviar has a pebbled texture that’s made from processed calf hide. Caviar has different finishes: matte, shiny, iridescent, etc. Caviar is durable and takes a while to emphasize wear making caviar a perfect material to shop secondhand!
Calfskin
Calfskin leather is the sweet middle of lambskin and caviar leather. Since it’s also made from calf hide, it’s more durable than lambskin, but not as processed or textured as caviar leather. Calfskin leather is versatile, and Chanel has worked with many variations to this textile: aged, glazed, and iridescent calfskin.
Aged Calfskin
Aged calfskin is the opposite of smooth lambskin or calfskin. Aged calfskin is processed to intentionally emphasize its creases. Chanel uses the crinkled calfskin in many styles, especially the 2.55 Reissue flap bag, creating a timeless, slouchy look. Currently, aged calfskin is being heavily designed into the Chanel 25.
Tweed
Chanel tweed is a woven ensemble of different materials such as wool, silk, and cotton. Tweed is made by machine weaving the warp, vertically, and weft, horizontally. The warp is the base of the design that can hold up to a dozen threads. The weft weaves all the different threads into the warp. Tweed was debuted by Gabrielle Chanel in the 1920s strictly for ready-to-wear. During Karl Lagerfeld’s tenure, he expanded the use of Chanel tweed keeping the textile relevant through the years. The machinery of tweed itself can make a bag feel one-of-one!
Patent Leather
Patent leather is, indeed, real leather! Patent leather is layered plastic or lacquer coating with fine-grained leather. The patent coating is buffed and polished to create a smooth and glossy look. Patent leather is a great option because it naturally becomes water-resistant. This coated leather is stiff and durable to last for many years.
Nylon
Though, not one of Chanel’s more popular textiles, it made its impact! In the 1990’s, Karl Lagerfeld created the Travel Ligne, which heavily used nylon in its handbags. Its popularity grew in the 2000s for its everyday functionality, CC logo design, and neutral colors. The Travel Ligne is successful in the secondhand market because of its fair price points and various styles. Chanel Sport is another diffusion line created by Karl Lagerfeld that used nylon in a more understated, sporty tone. Now, nylon wasn’t exclusively used for their diffusion lines; the textile has been used for flap bags, totes, and messengers throughout different collections.
Shearling
A timeless textile to talk about is shearling! Shearling is made from quality sheepskin hides. It’s meticulously crafted with the wool intact on one side and the leather pelts on the other. The leather pelts are tanned and treated while keeping the leather’s integrity intact. Because of its niche processing, shearling is luxurious and sensitive to stains and markings. Shearling is perfect for a cozy, winter look.
Denim
Denim has been a part of Chanel’s textiles for a long time, even though it wasn’t used consistently on handbags. Under Virginie Viard’s tenure, she revitalized Chanel’s connection to denim. Catering to a younger appeal, Viard used denim to blend quiet luxury and casual, everyday wear. Since denim is a heavy material, it can last a long time.
Exotics
Over the years, Chanel has created bags using crocodile skin, stingray, python, ostrich, and more. In 2018, Chanel announced that they will stop working with exotic materials. This increased the hunt for Chanel exotics in the secondhand luxury market. From the python Classic Flap Bags, stingray Boy bags, and ostrich feather evening bags, the brand did not hesitate to push the boundaries in their signature, classy styles.
Embossed Crocodile
In Matthieu Blazy’s current creative leadership, we are seeing many handbags with the embossed croc textile. Especially with his reimagination of the classic Cerf-style shopper tote. Now, is embossed croc real leather? The answer is yes! It is calfskin leather that’s stamped and treated with a glossy finish to mimic the texture and shine of the exotic skin. Even if it’s not the real thing, embossed croc is eternally stylish.
Canvas
If you love Chanel’s Deauville tote, then you must appreciate canvas. This textile is durable and breathable since it’s usually made from cotton and linen. These materials are tightly woven together to create a durable base.
Embellishments
Chanel has worked with sequins, patchwork, grommets, and many different types of embellishments. Usually seen on their Métiers d’Art collections, these exquisitely hand-crafted bags steal the attention on the runway. Some of these handbags are hard to come by. Chanel’s variation of classic and new styles adorned with embellishments leaves their consumers savoring for these finds.
Chanel handbags are crafted from a variety of luxurious materials, including lambskin, caviar leather, calfskin, tweed, patent leather, nylon, denim, canvas and shearling. The fashion house has also incorporated exotic skins and intricate embellishments into select designs, showcasing its approach to texture and craftsmanship.
Chanel lambskin is known for its exceptionally soft, smooth texture and luxurious appearance, while caviar leather features a distinctive pebbled finish made from treated calfskin. Caviar leather is generally more resistant to visible scratches and everyday wear, making it a popular choice for those seeking a durable Chanel handbag.
Caviar leather is a popular choice for everyday Chanel handbags because its pebbled texture helps conceal minor scratches and signs of wear. Calfskin, canvas and nylon are also versatile options, depending on the style and intended use. When shopping for a pre-loved Chanel bag, consider the material's condition, care requirements and how frequently you plan to carry it.
Chanel tweed is a woven textile that often combines materials such as wool, silk and cotton to create distinctive textures, colors and patterns. Gabrielle Chanel introduced tweed into the fashion house's ready-to-wear collections in the 1920s, and Karl Lagerfeld later expanded its use. Today, tweed remains a defining element of Chanel's design heritage, appearing in both clothing and select handbags.
Pre-loved Chanel handbags offer an opportunity to discover iconic designs, distinctive materials and hard-to-find styles from past collections. From classic lambskin and caviar flap bags to tweed, denim and nylon designs, the secondhand luxury market offers a wide range of options. When shopping pre-loved, consider the handbag's condition, material, craftsmanship and authenticity before making a purchase.
What Goes Around Comes Around is not affiliated with Chanel and has not been authorized by Chanel to sell the items linked in this post.