The Galliano Era: A Guide to John Galliano’s Legacy at Dior and His Most Iconic Designer Bags

John Galliano at Givenchy and Dior: The Golden Age of Haute Couture

In 1995 he was appointed Creative Director at Givenchy — the first British designer to head a French haute couture house. Galliano remained with Givenchy for a year before moving to Christian Dior. Dior is where Galliano truly cemented his legacy. His haute couture shows were grand spectacles, blending fantasy with high fashion; he helped reinvigorate the house with his avant-garde flair. Galliano’s tenure at Dior is one of the most iconic and influential eras in modern fashion history, which would define haute couture and theatricality for over a decade. Galliano's time with Dior was a golden era of couture flamboyance. It revived the grandeur of Dior’s “New Look” but pushed it into a postmodern, surrealist direction.

Scandal, Reinvention, and the Maison Margiela Chapter

In 2011, Galliano was dismissed from Dior and would remain absent from the fashion world until 2014 when he made a comeback as Creative Director at Maison Margiela. This move marked a shift in his designs, blending his signature flair with Margiela’s deconstructed aesthetic. John Galliano’s handbags while at Dior were central to his reinvention of the house into a theatrical, hyper-luxurious global brand. While the clothes captivated on the runway, the accessories—especially handbags—anchored Dior’s financial success and mass appeal.

The Iconic Dior Handbags Designed by John Galliano

The Dior Saddle Bag: Galliano’s Most Iconic Handbag

The most iconic Galliano-era handbag, the Dior Saddle Bag is, much like its name, shaped like a horse saddle, with an asymmetrical flap and bold “D” charm. Popularized by Sex and the City and early-2000s fashion icons, the bag was a cultural phenomenon akin to that of Fendi’s Baguette bag. Whether or not you enjoy the equestrian aesthetic, you’ve probably heard of the Saddle bag. Created as a tribute to the elegance of the equestrian universe,” the Saddle made its first appearance in 1999 during Dior’s Spring/Summer 2000 ready to wear show.

While the Saddle bag’s first appearance got the fashion world talking (thanks in part to the highly sexual campaign featuring the bags) it was the Saddle’s guest spot on Sex and the City which fully catapulted it into stardom. During season 3 of Sex and the City, Carrie wore a pink and gold version of the Saddle while out with everyone’s favorite boyfriend Aidan.

The Saddle continued to be the defining bag of the era, seen with celebrities like Paris Hilton. Gallino continued to update the Saddle in different colors and styles such as denim, camouflage, and newspaper print – an extremely rare and sought-after design as Carrie Bradshaw wore the pattern in dress form on Sex and the City.

The Rasta Collection: A Controversial Yet Coveted Capsule

In 2004, Galliano tip-toed with controversy yet again as he released the infamous Rastafarian inspired collection. Supermodel Gisele Bündchen was the face of the line and posed for the ad campaign which took the fashion world by storm.

When creating the line, John Galliano drew inspiration from the colors that represent the Rastafarian movement – green, yellow, red, and black. Many saw the line as cultural appropriation, others as appreciation; either way, the collection was immensely popular with select styles fetching high prices on the resell market. The Rasta collection saw its way to ready-to-wear and many Dior handbag silhouettes such as the Saddle.

The Dior Gambler Bag: Galliano’s Playful Vegas-Inspired Purse

Inspired by the bright lights of Las Vegas, Galliano designed the Gambler Bag in the early 2000s which featured casino themed accents such as dice, cards, and roulette. The bag came in multiple colors and styles such as leather, leopard print, and multicolor canvas.

The Dior Detective Bag: Understated Luxury with Practical Appeal

Another early 2000s treat designed by Galliano, the Detective Bag is a sleek and oversized handbag inspired by the classic briefcase silhouette, mixed with a touch of the “doctor” bag. While the bag is less showy than the typical Galliano design, the functionality of the Detective bag is not to be messed with. Large and in charge featuring multiple pockets and compartments, the Detective was created as Galliano’s quintessential travel bag.

The Dior Samourai Bag: Fashion Inspired by Japanese Artistry

Inspired by Japanese culture and ancient Samurai warrior motifs, Galliano’s Samourai Bag is a stunning piece of art that doubles as a handbag. The structured bag features leather weaving techniques to recreate armor-like inspired panels.

The Hardcore Saddle: Punk Influence Meets Designer Handbag Design

Galliano went full Punk Rock when creating the highly sought after, rare, and hard to come by Hardcore Saddle bag. Drawing inspiration from the Punk Rock counterculture, Galliano created a bag with metal “piercings” throughout the exterior with Punk Rock imagery featured on the bag.

The “Remove Before Flight” Collection: Galliano’s Avant-Garde Dior Moment

Dior’s Spring/Summer 2006 “Remove Before Flight” collection was one of Galliano’s boldest and most theatrical outings during his time at Dior. This collection was presented in Paris in July 2005 and featured Galliano’s signature flair for fantasy and excess. The collection drew upon the underground club kid movement of the 80s, mixed with military influence. Handbags featured bright orange tags that read “Remove Before Flight,” similar to those seen on aviation-inspired outfits.