Nicolas Ghesquière: Iconic Designs, Defining Moments & Shoppable Pieces
The Making of a Modern Fashion Legend
Nicolas Ghesquière is perhaps one of the most dynamic and ambitious fashion designers in the world. While he may be most known as the current creative director of womenswear for Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière has held positions at other luxury brands such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Balenciaga. Ghesquière joined Louis Vuitton in 2013 to help re-energize the fashion brand after transforming Balenciaga into one of the most highly desirable luxury brands in the world and successfully brought the once ailing fashion house back to life. Ghesquière’s fashion-forward and innovative aesthetic is instantly recognizable, and his designer pieces sell for high prices on the resell market.
Early Beginnings as a Fashion Prodigy
Born in Comines, Nord, a commune in France bordering Belgium, and raised in Loudon, France, Ghesquière knew he wanted to be a designer from a young age. He claims this desire stemmed from the need to break free of suburban boredom and not wanting to follow in the footsteps of his parents. By the time he was 12, Ghesquière was sketching designs, making dresses out of curtains and using old furniture to design jewelry. With the help of his father, he was able to put together a professional portfolio and send it to several designers; his diligence nabbed him an internship with designers agnès b. and Corinne Cobson.
Joining Jean Paul Gaultier and Balenciaga
After graduating high school, Ghesquière went on to work for Jean Paul Gaultier as an assistant designer. Ghesquière worked at Jean Paul Gaultier until 1992 and would go on to join Balenciaga as a licensing designer in 1995. This role consisted of him designing collections for different countries in Asia and South America. One these collections was a line of clothing for mourning widows in Japan.
In 1997, Balenciaga offered Ghesquière the temporary role of creative director until they filled it with someone with a more prestigious name. Balenciaga ended up keeping Ghesquière in the role and he stayed at the fashion house for fifteen years. Ghesquière is credited for making Balenciaga relevant after Cristobal Balenciaga closed the brand in 1968 and until its reopening in 1986. Ghesquière brought a much-needed modern touch to the fashion house and was praised for his tailoring and vision. He ended up making Balenciaga the most sought-after ticket at Paris Fashion Week.
International Success
When Ghesquière was only 30 years old, he was named Womenswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA awards. He was nominated against storied designers Karl Lagerfeld and Alexander Mcqueen and came out victorious.
Other than his role at Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière may be most known for the creation of the Lariat Bag, also known as the Motorcycle bag, which is one of the most iconic “It Bags” of the 21st century. Ghesquière has never designed a bag before and made a single prototype that was spotted by supermodel Kate Moss who wanted to wear it. Ghesquière created a few additional bags and sent them to friends and tastemakers like Chloe Sevigny, and the rest is history.
The bag itself featured braided handles, studded hardware, and dangling zipper pulls. Since the bag’s incarnation it has been reimagined in different sizes and silhouettes such as the City, the Velo, the First, and the Town. The Lariat became an instant worldwide success and made Ghesquière the name on everybody’s lips.
Ghesquière’s first time “dressing Hollywood” came with designing actress Jennifer Connelly’s Oscar dress. When Connelly went on to win the award for Best Actress, Ghesquière and the dress he created was the talk of the town.
Creative Director at Louis Vuitton
In November 2012, Ghesquière left Balenciaga and sent shockwaves through the fashion world. After a year away from the fashion industry, Ghesquière would replace Marc Jacobs as Womenswear Creative Director at Louis Vuitton. The first bag Ghesquière created while at Louis Vuitton was the Petite Malle, a mini version of the maison’s iconic travel trunk. Because of this, Ghesquière uses a Petite Malle design in every show to pay tribute to his first creation. Vogue would call Ghesquière “the most sought-after and influential figure in fashion,” and was heralded as Designer of the Year in 2014 by the British Fashion Awards.
Iconic Collections with Louis Vuitton
Ghesquière first collection for Louis Vuitton was the Fall/Winter 2014 collection, aptly titled “A New Day,” and would go on to change the house forever. Within his first year he brought the Tivoli silhouette back and introduced the world to the GO-14 handbag – a silhouette inspired by the quilted linings of trunks.
While his first year was seen as a massive success, Ghesquière had a daunting task in front of him: Louis Vuitton’s 160th anniversary. To pay homage to Louis Vuitton’s long legacy, Ghesquière enlisted six iconoclasts of fashion and design to create literal wearable art pieces. Those who collaborated with Louis Vuitton and Ghesquière were Karl Lagerfeld, Rei Kawakubo, Christian Louboutin, Frank Gehry, Cindy Sherman, and Mark Newsom; this massive collaboration was reminiscent of the house’s 1996 Centenarian Collection.
The experimental Spring/Summer 2016 collection saw a collaboration with video games series Final Fantasy, which featured digital renderings of the GO-14 bags.
Ghesquière would also famously collaborate with the iconic Grace Coddington to create the now infamous “Catogram Monogram,” which saw the Monogram feature illustrations of Coddington’s cats and Ghesquière’s dog. Louis Vuitton would also be the first fashion house to show in the iconic Louvre Museum in Paris for the Fall/Winter 2017 collection.
Iconic Cruise Collections
Ghesquière would often apply a whimsical touch to his collections. For example, prior to the 2016 Summer Olympics, Ghesquière held a show at Rio de Janeiro’s iconic Niteroi’s Contemporary Art Museum; the collection famously featured a boombox-inspired handbag.
Louis Vuitton’s Cruise 2018 collection would take place in Kyoto, Japan at the Miho Museum. This collection saw Ghesquière tap storied Japanese artist and designer Kansai Yamamoto who served as muse and collaborator for the collection. Yamamoto’s art and designs are inspired by Japanese art of the 1500s and the artform of Kabuki. Yamamoto may be most known for his work with David Bowie and the costumes he designed for his Ziggy Stardust and Aladdin Sane tours.
Louis Vuitton Cruise 2021 saw Ghesquière present the “Game On!” collection which featured the house’s iconic Speedy and Neverfull silhouettes adorned with hearts, clubs, and spades - inspired by playing cards.
Now more than ten years on since his first collection, there is no telling where Ghesquière’s creative mind will go next.
Own A Piece of Fashion History
Frank Gehry x Louis Vuitton Monogram Canvas Twisted Box
A jaw-dropping accessory from the 2014 Iconoclasts collection, this collaboration with architect Frank Gehry is a beautiful and wearable art piece. The Monogram Twisted Box is high on the list of hard-to-come-by LV collectibles. The asymmetrically twisted vanity box, which unlocks to reveal a blue Monogram Empreinte leather interior and a complimentary mirror, is an ode to Gehry's wave-like approach to construction design.
Monogram Reversed Petite Malle Trunk Clutch
Inspired by Louis Vuitton's iconic trunks – from the Monogram Reverse canvas down to the gold-tone lock and metal side fittings. The Petite Malle or “Little Trunk,” is the perfect versatile accessor and can be carried as a clutch or worn as a crossbody. The Petite Malle was the first bag Ghesquière created while at Louis Vuitton. Because of this, Ghesquière uses a Petite Malle design in every show to pay tribute to his first creation.
Black Monogram Embossed Leather Coussin MM
Pillow-like in creation and the true star of the Spring/Summer 2021 collection, the Coussin bag has become a popular Louis Vuitton accessory. Simple and refined, the Coussin pays homage to Louis Vuitton with an updated take on the classic Monogram.
Pink Agneau Giant 12 City Bag
Originally created as just a single prototype that was spotted by supermodel Kate Moss, Ghesquière created a few additional bags and sent them to friends and tastemakers. The bag itself featured braided handles, studded hardware, and dangling zipper pulls. Since the bag’s incarnation it has been reimagined in different sizes and silhouettes such as the City, the Velo, the First, and the Town.
White Kusama Infinity Dots Speedy 30
The iconic Speedy Bag was originally designed as the perfect bag for city living and the metropolitan fashionista on the go. Louis Vuitton would collaborate with iconic Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama in 2012 and 2023, reinterpreting the artist’s “Infinity Dots,” designs against the Monogram print.
