The Art of Revival: How Fashion’s Favorites Make a Comeback (Part 2)
The Return of the Fendi Spy Bag: The Sidekick and Secret Weapon of Every 2000s It-Girl
Let’s unlock the Fendi Y2K time capsule, one secret pocket at a time.
Part purse, part time machine, this early 2000s Spy Bag is still blowing its cover in today’s handbag market. The resurgence of the Fendi Spy Bag comes 20 years after its initial debut by Silvia Venturini Fendi as part of Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2005 collection. Fendi’s original Spy Bag quickly achieved cult status, becoming famously known for having a hidden pocket beneath the flap that opens via a disguised button, sealing the lore between the style’s name and functionality.
The reimagined Fendi Spy Bag retains key heritage features (tubular woven handles, a secret compartment, and a signature soft silhouette) but has been updated in smaller sizes and stripped of all patterns and logos. The reissue of the Fendi Spy Bag is available in a range of textiles, including smooth calfskin leather, inlaid hagfish leather (yes, from the slime eel), and Cavallino calfskin (a premium, pony hair calfskin leather.) Additionally, the reinterpreted version of the Spy Bag is crafted in two rare iterations, including an inlaid Swakara fur and leather version (a combination of curly sheep fur and calfskin leather) and an in-laid mink rendition, both available for a whopping price tag of $22,600 USD.
Today’s Spy Bag comes primarily in pastels and neutrals, with a small collection of deep jewel-toned colorways. This softer, less rigid design fits contemporary quiet luxury preferences, giving the reissue an iconic “it-bag” feel without the overuse of overt logos. This allows the rendition to capitalize solely on brand heritage rather than a loud display of logomania.
Mamma Knows Best: The Baguette’s Bigger, Softer Sister is Back
Mamma didn’t raise a quitter—she raised the bag we’ll never quit.
Fendi celebrates its 100th anniversary this year, and the centennial celebration began with a 1920s themed Spring/Summer 2025 collection heavily inspired by Fendi’s heritage. In Fendi’s S/S ‘25 runway show, artistic director Kim Jones paid homage to the four generations of women who have shaped the house of Fendi, mainly the matriarch of the Fendi family, Adele Casagrande Fendi, by reissuing the Mamma Baguette in an even taller and wider silhouette as a tribute to her.
The Fendi Mamma Returns for 2025
While the classic Fendi Baguette has been reintroduced in past years, the Fendi Mamma Baguette has never been reinterpreted for present day, until now. Originally debuted in the late 1990s as the XL model of the classic Fendi Baguette, which was created by Silvia Venturini Fendi (granddaughter of Fendi co-founders Edoardo and Adele Fendi, and creative director of Fendi at the time of release in 1997.) The vintage version of the Mamma Baguette was originally crafted to be a larger, roomier version of the classic Baguette, offering generous proportions with the intention of being more practical for everyday use.
The reimagined 2025 iteration pulls distinct design features from the original version (the elongated square shape, flap closure, and FF logo buckle), while also encompassing entirely new aesthetic elements for a modern twist. The contemporary silhouette has a soft and squishy structure and is adorned with a unique drawstring closure that enhances the soft, supple feel of the bag. Additionally, the FF buckle was updated to be inlaid with leather.
From Runway Reissue to Modern Must-Have
While the most popular material used in crafting the revival is buttery Nappa leather, the Spy Bag is back on the scene in a range of novelty Fendi textiles, such as floral embroideries, black python, FF embroidered jacquard velvet, circle sequins, ostrich leather, and shearling. The revamped version of the Mamma Baguette is available in three sizes: small, medium, and large, and comes in a soft color palette of neutrals and cool toned hues, such as pale pink, sage, matcha green.
It comes as no surprise to handbag enthusiasts that Fendi’s Mamma Baguette has made a comeback; especially with the era of Sex and the City’s reboot, And Just Like That, officially ending. The Fendi Baguette’s rise to fame can be credited to the show’s iconic fashion-forward lead character, Carrie Bradshaw. As demand for larger, roomier bags rises, and the phenomenon of mini and micro bags slowly circles out, the Mamma Baguette revival returns right on time for the fashion lifecycle to take another spin.
Shoulder the Past, Wear the Future: JPG Shoulder Birkin Light
From East to West, the JPG Shoulder Birkin stretches its legacy—scaled to 29 cm.
We have some news, and we don’t expect you to take it lightly. Hermès’ most rebellious Birkin has returned, tailored for today’s style in a refined size of 29 cm. The resurgence of Jean Paul Gaultier’s cult classic comes in a smaller, more compact structure, intended to be more “wearable” for everyday due to its lightweight nature and comfortable under-the-arm shoulder carry.
Hermès Shoulder Birkin 29: A Cult Classic Reimagined
The reinvented 29 cm version popped up on the Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 runway in a notably refined size, providing a fresh spin on the classic design more than 20 years after its initial release. The original Shoulder Birkin, available in larger sizes like 40 and 42 cm, was debuted in 2004 by then artistic director, Jean Paul Gaultier, and was discontinued in 2013. The JPG Shoulder Birkin was brought back in 2024 in an updated 39 cm version, refining the size of the highly popularized silhouette.
Once again, Hermès has refined the size for its 2025 reissue, slimming the silhouette further down to 29 cm. After its first re-release last year, the demand for JPG Shoulder Birkin’s exploded, partially due to the ever-growing allure of the East-West orientation, which is a silhouette that features a horizontally elongated, rectangular shape that is wider than it is tall. This structure provides a distinct “cropped” look in juxtaposition to the classic Birkin’s proportions.
The modern version, rebranded to be known as the Shoulder Birkin Light, is 29 cm (11.5 inches) across the base, offering a more petite profile compared to the original JPG Birkin. Based on marketplace listings and Hermès’ Special Order policy, the release of the Shoulder Birkin Light 29 is primarily available in Evercolor leather, while combinations such as Swift leather paired with Toile canvas and Denim paired with Toile canvas have also been seen.
JPG Birkin Light: Why the New Size Matters
Additionally, the reemerged iteration is lighter in construction (hence the nickname) and features updated hardware that has been scaled to match the smaller size and structure of the bag. The choice of the word “light” is deliberate and carries meaning. In terms of the physical implication, the word “light” suggests that the design is easier to wear because it’s lighter on the body and more comfortable for shoulder carrying in comparison to vintage JPGs, which could oftentimes feel heavy or floppy when full.
The JPG Shoulder Birkin proves what we already know—what goes around will always swing back into style— still heavily loved by the masses, but far lighter in weight. Let's face it, the original JPG Birkin’s weren’t known for being dainty. Their bulky, grand proportions and more relaxed structure gave the style weight, in both the literal and visual sense. The term “light” conveys a sense of elegance and minimalism, making the relaunched iteration feel more streamlined, with less of the exaggerated slouchy structure of earlier JPG models. The 29 cm size makes this style more practical for everyday use, while still preserving core JPG features in a softer, more refined structure.
Rare and new sizes tend to be more desirable amongst handbag collectors, specifically for those who collect Hermès handbags, and the 29 cm size spins a new twist into the fashion lifecycle, making the JPG Shoulder Birkin not just a nostalgically revived piece, but a forward-looking one.
Yesterday’s Icons, Today’s Must-Haves
Overall, luxury fashion houses have responded to demand by diving into their old catalogues, re-releasing “it bags” after tweaking them for modern tastes (new colors, materials, sizes, silhouettes), while retaining recognizable heritage details. After years of micro, logo heavy, or very structured bags, there is a countertrend toward slouchy, soft, practical, yet still luxurious bags; something that balances style with functionality.
The runway proves it, the resale market confirms it—what goes around comes around, in name and in practice. Designers may reintroduce them, but we’ve kept them alive all along—because, well, what goes around comes around—and we know that best.
Shop our collection of pre-loved 100% authenticity guaranteed vintage handbags at What Goes Around Comes Around today.
The Fendi Spy Bag returns as a modernized cult classic with heritage details like a secret pocket and tubular handles, updated in smaller sizes and soft, pastel colorways for today’s quiet luxury trends.
Originally the XL version of the classic Baguette, the 2025 Mamma Baguette features a soft, squishy structure, a drawstring closure, updated FF buckle inlaid with leather, and comes in small, medium, and large sizes with neutral and pastel tones.
The JPG Shoulder Birkin Light 29 is a reissued Jean Paul Gaultier Birkin scaled to 29 cm, designed for lightweight everyday wear while retaining its iconic East-West silhouette and refined heritage features.
Fashion houses are responding to demand for timeless yet practical styles, re-releasing “it bags” with updated sizes, colors, and materials, balancing heritage details with modern functionality.
Collectors can find pre-loved, 100% authenticity-guaranteed Fendi Spy Bags, Fendi Mamma Baguettes, and Hermès JPG Shoulder Birkins at What Goes Around Comes Around, offering rare and reissued pieces for modern collectors.