The Story Behind the Icon

The Birkin, a name synonymous with luxury and high fashion, might just be the most famous bag in the world. No handbag in circulation has the storied past of that of the Birkin, its creator Jean-Louis Dumas, and muse, Jane Birkin.

Jane Birkin, a French and British actress, activist, and singer, was born and raised in England and rose to prominence during the Swinging Sixties. In 1984, Jane sat down on a flight from Paris to London and was carrying a large, overstuffed organizer on her person that fell to ground, its contents spilling all over the place. When the gentleman next to her offered to help, he mentioned that her organizer should have pockets. Birkin exclaimed, “Hermès doesn’t come with pockets.” To which the man replied, “I am Hermès.”

The Birth of the Birkin Bag

It turned out to be Jean-Louis Dumas, chairman and artistic director of the French fashion house Hermès. The two struck up a conversation and Birkin began to tell him about her need for a sizeable, yet chic weekender – not too much larger than the Kelly, but smaller than the typical suitcase silhouette. Dumas pulled out a motion sickness bag and began sketching. A month later Jane received a call from Dumas to come and fetch the bag he had created for her. With that, the most famous and coveted bag in history was born.

Jane Birkin’s bag was much different than the typical Birkin silhouette we’re used to seeing today. The original Birkin borrowed elements from Hermès’ Haut à Courroies or HAC – a style inspired by Argentinean Cowboys and meant to carry riding gear. The unique characteristics of the original style highlight the uniqueness and singularity of Jane’s original bag. Jane carried the bag for a decade, wearing it out wherever she went – as reflected in the well-worn condition of the bag. Jane would also famously adorn the bag with charms, trinkets, scarves, and stickers, creating moving art which became a canvas for both her personality and activism.

In 1994, Jane donated her prized Birkin to a charity auction benefiting Association Solidarité Sida, a French AIDS research and prevention charity. The bag was once again sold at auction in 2000 and has remained in the hands of Catherine B., a fashion historian, ever since – until now. The original Birkin prototype will once again be sold at auction. On July 10th 2025, the bag will go on sale in accordance with haute couture week in Paris and will surely fetch a hefty price.

Let’s dive deeper and look at the unique design details that differ from the Birkin we know and love today.

Inside the Original Birkin: Design Details That Set It Apart

The Shoulder Strap

The most distinctive difference between Jane Birkin’s original Birkin versus the updated Birkin is the attached shoulder strap. In the ‘90s, Hermès made a limited-edition Birkin with a detachable strap, but Jane’s Birkin bag is the only one that has a non-removable shoulder strap.

The Size

While the original Birkin bag came in the 35 and 40 sizes, Jane’s bag was a unique blend of both. It matched the width and height of a Birkin 35 with the depth of a Birkin 40, giving it a one-of-a-kind silhouette.

The Hardware

Jane’s Birkin featured brass hardware which would eventually be replaced by gold-plated hardware. Over time, Hermès eventually expanded the hardware options to Palladium and Ruthenium finishes.

The Personalization

The original Birkin prototype was deeply personal to Jane and proudly featured her initials, “J.B.,” stamped on the front flap.

Jane’s Nail Clipper

Known for her tomboy-inspired style, Jane preferred a natural look over long and painted nails. To keep her nails trimmed, she kept a nail clipper attached to a chain hanging from the shoulder strap inside her bag for easy use and on the go access.

“Jane Birkinifying" Your Bag

If there’s one thing the 2020s are known for, it’s microtrends. Some trends fade quickly, and some last a long while. entering the zeitgeist of culture and history. As previously mentioned, Jane ensured her Birkin was personalized and styled to her specifications and liking, decking the bag out completely. With the rise of TikTok, personalized expression, and adorable bags charms reaching new heights every day, there’s no time like the present to spice up your bag – Birkin or not – and show off your personality. Influencers everywhere are decking their bags out with trendy bag charms, Hermès scarves wrapped around the handles, and pearl necklaces draped over the front flap; even luxury brands like Balenciaga and Miu Miu featured highly personalized and stylized bags in their Spring/Summer 2024 runway shows.










Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs):
1. What makes Jane Birkin’s Birkin bag so valuable?

Jane Birkin’s personal Hermès Birkin bag is the original muse for the world-famous luxury handbag. Its cultural significance, iconic status, and direct connection to Birkin herself make it a highly sought-after collector’s item.

2. What condition is Jane Birkin’s auctioned Birkin bag in?

The Birkin bag shows visible signs of wear, reflecting Jane Birkin’s authentic and everyday use. These well-loved details add to its historical and collectible value.

3. Did Jane Birkin personalize her Birkin bag?

Yes. Jane Birkin famously customized her Birkin bags with stickers, charms, and personal decorations—many of which remain intact on the bag going up for auction.

4. When and where is Jane Birkin’s Birkin bag being auctioned?

Jane Birkin’s Birkin will be auctioned by Sotheby’s in Paris on July 10, 2025, during their prestigious “Fashion Icons” sale. Leading up to the event, the bag will be on display at Sotheby’s New York galleries from June 6–12 and at Paris galleries from July 3–9, allowing collectors and enthusiasts to view this historic piece in person

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