How Goyard Became a Symbol of Discreet Luxury

The story of Goyard doesn’t begin with a designer or a brand launch; it begins in 18th-century Paris, long before fashion houses and logos defined luxury. In 1792, amidst the chaos and change of revolutionary France, Pierre-François Martin opened a quiet workshop dedicated to crafting trunks and custom travel goods. His clientele wasn’t drawn in by marketing, they were drawn in by necessity and discretion. Aristocrats and prominent families entrusted Martin with creating luggage that could survive long journeys and unpredictable times. He built a reputation on craftsmanship and reliability, setting a foundation that would outlive him. When Martin died in 1841, the workshop passed into the hands of Louis-Henri Morel, a former employee who kept it running under a new name: Maison Morel.

It was here, in this unassuming workshop, that a teenager named François Goyard entered the picture. Hired as an apprentice in 1845, Goyard was a worker learning the rhythms of a trade passed down by hand. When Morel died suddenly, Goyard stepped up, taking control of a business that had already changed hands twice. He renamed it Maison Goyard and began shaping it into something more focused, more personal. Goyard didn’t need to invent a story - he had inherited one. Over the next forty years, he refined it, quietly building a name that would become synonymous not with trend, but with time-tested utility. By the time he handed the business to his son Edmond Goyard in 1885, Maison Goyard had evolved into a destination for those who cared more about function than display.

Under Edmond Goyard, the brand expanded beyond the Paris workshop, opening storefronts in Monte-Carlo, Biarritz, and Bordeaux; he also planted flagship stores overseas in London and New York. But it wasn’t just about geography. Edmond responded to a changing world with new products: pieces designed for pets, compartments for automobile travel, and trunks suited for a modern pace. He didn’t follow trends; he anticipated the needs of people in motion. What began as a Parisian trunk maker was now something far broader: a name passed down, adapted, and carried forward by those who knew how to build for the long haul.

In 1937, Robert Goyard inherited the family business at a turning point in global history. As war loomed over Europe, many luxury houses prepared for disruption, but Goyard prepared to endure. Robert didn’t chase trends or headlines. Instead, he reinforced what the maison did best handcrafted trunks, meticulous personalization, and a refusal to dilute the brand's DNA.

Through World War II, postwar frugality, and the shifting tastes of the 1960s and ’70s, Robert stayed the course. Goyard remained niche by design and as a label known only to those with old money, old passports, and a deep appreciation for the kind of luxury that doesn’t scream. His leadership was not about expansion, but preservation. When others modernized, Robert held the line. By the time he stepped down in 1979, Goyard had barely changed, and that was precisely the point. He had safeguarded its essence through some of the most volatile decades in modern memory.

After a sleepy period, Goyard found a new leader in Jean-Michel Signoles, a French businessman and vintage Goyard enthusiast who acquired the brand in 1998. But this was no ordinary takeover. There was no marketing overhaul. No creative director appointment. No splashy relaunch. Just one man with a vision: to restore Goyard, not reinvent it. 

Signoles treated the brand with the reverence of a museum curator. He revived archival designs, expanded the signature Goyardine canvas into a rainbow of custom hues, and reemphasized the art of personalization. Stores began to appear in global capitals, still discreet, minimalist, and unmistakably Goyard. What’s perhaps most remarkable is what didn’t happen. There were no fashion shows, no seasonal collections, no Instagram strategy. Goyard, under Signoles, became the anti-brand and in doing so, the ultimate status symbol. Ownership signaled access, knowledge, and a certain immunity to fashion’s constant churn. Over two decades later, Signoles’ strategy hasn’t wavered. In a world obsessed with visibility, Goyard’s invisibility remains its greatest power.

Goyardine Explained: The Maison’s Most Recognizable Motif

When Edmond Goyard developed the Goyardine canvas in 1892, he was embedding his family’s story into the very surface of his creations. The canvas’s speckled pattern wasn’t arbitrary; it traced back to his lineage, to ancestors who once guided timber along rivers in France. Their legacy took shape in a motif that resembled stacked logs from a distance, turning a practical background into a visual code. The fabric itself, adapted from a tough, waxed cloth used by 19th-century river workers for their smocks, brought together tradition and function in equal measure.

Though the pattern has since become emblematic, the process behind the Goyardine remains under lock and key. Few details have ever surfaced. What’s known is that it starts with an untreated linen and cotton base. Over that, artisans apply a background color, then layer on three successive stages of screen printing, each pass adding dimension and depth. The result is a finish that feels more like relief work than print—one that ages not by breaking down, but by evolving, growing softer, richer, more nuanced with every year and mile.

Production halted after World War II, leaving the canvas absent for decades. That silence ended in 1998, when Jean-Michel Signoles took over and reopened the archives. Alongside the original black, he introduced a palette of bold new colors, like forest green, sky blue, burgundy, and bright yellow. Gold and silver variations were set aside for trunks and hard cases, adding a layer of exclusivity. Since then, Goyard has occasionally released limited-run colors, each met with quiet fervor.

The Art of Marquage

Goyard carves out its own path by championing the art of true individuality—where personalization is less a luxury and more a declaration of identity. Eschewing mechanical reproduction, every detail on the Goyardine canvas is brought to life by hand through the time-honored marquage technique. Master artisans, rooted in tradition and precision, delicately apply initials, symbols, and stripes using natural pigments, ensuring each piece is singular and imbued with personality. The outcome is more than a logo or label—it’s a story uniquely told through craftsmanship and care.

Personalization at Goyard offers an expansive canvas of creativity. Whether you prefer classic serif or clean sans serif fonts, contrasting shadows, or a trio of stripes arranged to your liking, the options encourage playful expression. Beyond the familiar lies a whimsical world: the elegant ribbons of Millésimes, the endearing French bulldog illustrations in Hulot, or the romantic embrace of Cœur Goyard. The latest innovation, Insecte, reinterprets the brand’s motifs into delicate insects—symbolic and lively. With a palette spanning earthy neutrals, vivid hues, and shimmering metallics, Goyard transforms personalization into an artful dialogue between tradition and individual flair.

Iconic Styles

St. Louis Tote

The St. Louis one of the brand’s most iconic styles was originally created as a beach carryall back in the 1930s, which explains why it’s so lightweight and flexible. Named after King Louis IX of France and made from Goyard’s signature Goyardine coated canvas. The GM is a favorite for travel or days when you’ve got a lot to haul around. The PM is better suited for everyday use if you want something more compact.

Anjou

The Anjou looks a lot like the St. Louis but has one big difference it’s leather lining. That gives it more structure and a bit more weight. One side is smooth calfskin; the other is the classic Goyardine print. It’s still reversible, just with a more substantial feel. It comes in GM, PM, and mini, and is named after the Duke of Anjou, the brother of Saint Louis.

Belvédère

If you’re after something hands-free and easy to throw on, the Belvédère fits. It’s a crossbody with a flap closure and buckle, made from Goyardine canvas with Taurillon leather trimming. The name comes from a forest lookout point, tying back to Goyard’s roots in the logging trade. It’s simple, compact, and built for movement—ideal for days when you want to carry light but still need the essentials close.

Saïgon

The Saïgon doesn’t look like anything else in Goyard’s lineup. It’s boxy, structured, and trimmed with wood. It’s a nod to the brand’s origins in trunk-making. It’s a bag you carry when you want something with a bit more presence.

Vendôme

The Vendôme is shaped like a mini duffel with a rounded top and dual-zip closure. It can be worn on the shoulder or carried by hand, and comes in three sizes: MM, PM, and mini. The name comes from Place Vendôme in Paris, close to Goyard’s historic shop. The wooden handle details are a quiet reminder of the brand’s past in craftsmanship and travel.

Bowling 55

The Bowling 55 bag is the perfect companion for short trips, whether used as carry-on luggage or a gym bag. It offers secure zip closure with a padlock to protect your belongings. Designed for convenience, it features adjustable handles for comfortable hand-carrying, while side pull tabs ensure easy access and allow the bag to expand or contract based on what you pack.

Grand Hotel

Named after the illustrious grand hotels that have welcomed discerning travelers for generations, the Grand Hôtel 70 suitcase embodies Goyard’s legacy of meticulous craftsmanship. Constructed in the brand’s expert trunk workshop, this rigid suitcase features two signature woven Jacquard straps that secure its contents with understated elegance. Designed for those who appreciate heritage and practicality, it transforms travel into an art form.

Jouvence Toiletry 

Named after the French word for “youth,” the Jouvence toiletry bag brings a fresh perspective to travel organization. Its upright design keeps your essentials secure and helps prevent spills, while the water-resistant cotton lining makes cleanup simple. Available in three sizes—PM, MM, and GM—it offers versatility to suit every trip. A practical loop tab allows for easy hanging or attachment, combining functionality with a sleek, minimalist aesthetic.

Cap-Vert

Named after the Cap-Vert peninsula on the west coast of Africa and designed for city life, the Cap-Vert bag keeps your daily essentials within reach and in order. Its compact size makes it easy to carry, while a secure zip closure ensures everything stays in place throughout the day. It features an adjustable shoulder strap for a comfortable fit, whether you're navigating crowded streets or hopping between meetings. Built for everyday use, it’s a straightforward solution for staying organized on the move.

Sénat Pouch

The Sénat MGM pouch takes its name from the Palais du Luxembourg, the seat of the French Senate, reflecting a blend of tradition and practicality. Perfectly sized to hold A4 documents, it serves as an efficient organizer for your work essentials or as a sleek clutch for daily use. Equipped with a secure zip closure and an internal pocket for cards, it keeps your belongings safe and neatly arranged, whether inside a larger bag or carried alone.

Chien Gris

Building on the design of our iconic Saint Louis bag, the Chien Gris is crafted to carry small dogs (2 to 3 kg) with security and ease. Named after the greyhound, a nod to Goyard’s history, it features a removable, adjustable collar inspired by the Edmond collar to keep your pet safe during travel.

Capétien 

The Capétien messenger bag, named after the historic Capetian dynasty, is designed to carry A4 documents, tablets, or laptops with ease. Featuring an adjustable strap for a customized fit and a secure closure to protect your essentials, it offers practical organization through its well-placed interior and exterior pockets—making it a reliable companion for daily use.

Plumet

The Plumet pocket wallet brings together smart design and versatility in a compact form. With three distinct compartments for coins, notes, and cards, it adapts seamlessly to your essentials. The removable strap transforms it into a wearable crossbody, making it as practical as it is easy to carry—an accessory designed for the demands of modern life.

Artois

Inspired by the legendary Saint Louis bag, the Artois offers a more structured design with reinforced leather corners and a secure zip closure. A floating interior pocket ensures easy organization, while customizable details and smart initials make it uniquely yours.

Monte Carlo

The Monte-Carlo clutch draws from our signature trunk craftsmanship—highlighting wooden rods, bracketed corners, and rivets—in a refined, modern silhouette. Its adjustable strap offers flexible wear, whether slung over the shoulder or across the chest.








Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. When and how was Goyard founded?

Goyard’s origins date back to 1792 in Paris, when Pierre-François Martin opened a workshop crafting trunks and travel goods, laying the foundation for what would become Maison Goyard.

2. How is the Goyardine canvas made?

Starting with untreated linen and cotton, artisans apply background colors followed by three stages of screen printing to build the distinctive, relief-like finish.

3. Where can I buy authentic Goyard bags?

Authentic Goyard pieces can be found at What Goes Around Comes Around retail stores and online platforms.

4. How do I care for my Goyard bag?

Avoid excessive exposure to water and direct sunlight. Use a soft cloth to clean the canvas and treat leather trims with appropriate conditioners. For personalization areas, gentle care preserves the hand-painted details.

5. What sizes do Goyard bags come in?

Many styles come in multiple sizes, such as PM (small), MM (medium), and GM (large), to suit different needs — from everyday carry to travel.

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